March 1997

March is a month of contrasts and it was so for us. We started the month on the beach in Galveston, Texas. Our mornings began with long walks on the beach and our afternoons were spent seeing the sights in town. We enjoyed the architecture of the historic homes and its downtown, lunch next to tinkling water fountain on the patio of a New Orlean's style hotel, and touring the beautiful restored 19th century Opera House. But, Moody's Garden, a five story glass pyramid terrarium full of tropical birds, butterflies, and plants, was the most fun. We spent hours just watching the antics of the various birds, bats, and the butterflies.

We enjoyed Galveston so much we were really looking forward to visiting Corpus Cristi and some more time on the Gulf. We spent a couple of days at near Corpus Cristi. The campground was similar to the one we had just left except the sand dunes were larger. But, now, the beach was a drive away.

So, we decided, since we were this close, to camp ON the beach at the Padre Island National Seashore. We were told to park our rig above the high water mark in the firmer sand (like we really wanted to park in the soft stuff?) and if the water reached our wheels, we should move. Other RVs were parked along the beach and Fred was ready for the adventure. Suzi found the comments a little worrisome but was game. Little did we realize the real adventure would begin upon our departure. As we began to pullout, Kermit's rear wheels dug deep into the sand. Fortunately, Park Rangers patrol the beach with some regularity and, like good Boy Scouts, are prepared for just such as our problem. With their shovels and muscles we extracted our rig from the sand and escaped the Seashore.

Since the weather along the coast wasn't cooperating (even Tory had a soggy, sandblasted look) we decided to head inland - to the hill country. The Texas Hill Country has got to be a "best keep" secrets. It is simply beautiful - wild, rugged, mountainous, rocky, natural, and glorious.

Fred selected State park to stay at called Lost Maples (even he can't remember why but it was most fortuitous). We forgot about Spring Break in Texas (which is staggered throughout the month of March) and the Lost Maples campground was full. We found a private campground just down the road. The managers, Wayne and Rick, were a great source of information. They told us about Medina, the "Apple Capital of Texas," Bandera, the "Cowboy Capital of the World," Fredericksburg, and the San Antonio's "River Walk" were all a must. So many people had suggested this "River Walk," it was already on the top of our to do list.

Frankly, one would never imagine there was anything as lovely as the River Walk when approaching San Antonio. But one of the best things about San Antonio was our new hats. Yes, they had a store full of only cowboy hats and we each found a pair perfect for the summer.

The town of Bandera retains its western appearance by town ordinance. It has a population of 10,543 and is one of the larger Hill Country towns. We had a great time exploring the town and visiting their little museum. We ate some of the best "Bar-b-que" at the OST (Old Spanish Trail) Restaurant amid John Wayne memorabilia. After our experiences in Florida, we found the Hill Country's enthusiastic "Welcome back Winter Texans" (better known as snowbirds) very pleasant.

Scattered throughout the Hill Country are two types of rather interesting ranches - Emu and Exotic Wildlife. Now, if you don't know what an Emu looks like, imagine what you would get if you cross ostrich, with a Yorkshire terrier and a feather duster. Funny looking but a menu item here. We met a young couple who are the housekeeper/chef and foreman at a Exotic Wildlife ranch nearby. According to them, many of the Exotic Ranches were started as "Hunting Parks" but are now breeding ranches. It would appear there is a profitable market for exotic pets and meat. We aren't sure how we feel about this but it is cool to see all the different breeds of antelope, gazelle and deer grazing on rugged hillsides.

Fredericksburg, settled some 150-years ago by German immigrants, and the hometown of Admiral Nimitz, is located on the eastern side of the Hill Country where the hills melt into plains. This town has enormously wide streets. The reason - when the town was laid-out the main mode of transportation was by oxen. These big critter don't have a reserve. That's right, oxen do not backup. So the streets were made wide enough for the oxen to make a wide arc and turn around.

Fredericksburg has also retained German beer-making culture. After lunch at one of the local breweries, and sampling their five different brews, Fred declared they make the best beer he has had since leaving Germany (and Suzi drove home).

Another interesting feature of this town is the "Sunday House." These are cottage-size houses, most built from local limestone. In bygone days, the local farmers spent the weekend these town houses. Having a Sunday House allowed the farmer and his family a chance to attend church and have some social contacts. Many of the Sunday Houses are still maintained and occupied.

On our last day in Fredericksburg we decided to visit Luckenbach and nearby vineyards. Luckenbach is a tiny town (population 3) with one house, a country store with a bar in the back, and a dance hall. This town is so small the store clerk/bartender commutes from San Antonio, some 70 miles away! His "other job" is lead guitar and vocals for Willie Nelson's opening band. Fred got him to give us a mini-concert (payment was consumption of one beer at 11am - yuk) which was fun. About once a month Luckenbach holds a concert, usually country music, and thousands of people attend. This is the real reason for Luckenbach's continued existence.

Beer brewing is an old industry in this area but wine making is getting established. The conditions and climate would seem to be against the vineyards but they are managing. Fred tried a little of the grape at Sisters Creek Vineyard and was pleasantly surprised (and Suzi drove home). Fred really enjoyed Fredericksburg.

From Fredericksburg we headed for Sweetwater, Texas to see the place where as a WASP (Women Auxiliary Service Pilots) trainee Suzi's mother learned to fly. After two weeks in the Hill Country, the land around Sweetwater seemed really flat 'cause it really was flat. The wind was blowing constantly and it actually reached 90 degrees one day. There wasn't much to the town of Sweetwater but we did find, at the old Avenger Airstrip (now Sweetwater Airport), a Memorial and some little information about the WASPs. Along with many others, Suzi's mother's name is engraved there.

From Sweetwater we made a beeline for the Ouachita (wash-i-tah) National Forest in Oklahoma. For those of you who think Oklahoma is nothing but flat (as did Suzi) come-on-down! It is beautiful here! The Talimena Scenic Byway uses the ridges of the Ouachita Mountains, some reaching as high as 2600 feet, to connect the eastern section of the Forest with the main portion in Arkansas. The drive reminded us so much of the Skyline Drive in Virginia - the redbuds were out and the dogwoods were starting to bloom. Overall, we found this Forest to be totally delightful. Suzi had a great time being a rockhound and finding "Arkansas diamonds," quartz crystals. They even have campgrounds with full hook-ups. Is this heaven or what?

We ended March and our stay in the Ouachita National Forest with a bath at Hot Springs, Arkansas. Please remember a bathtub is not one of the items we have in our trailer and the water used at the Baths is not your everyday tap water. The experience of "Taking the Waters" at Hot Springs, Arkansas is beyond imagination. The water's normal temperature is about 140 degrees. It was so delightful, Fred is willing to do it again (Suzi is the bathtub person in this family and Fred is a devoted shower-taker). And Suzi considered (very briefly) staying submerged in this whirling, satiny smooth aquatic environment.

As you can see March was a great month (and we left a lot out!!!). April may not be as much fun but we try to find a few things to write about. When you next hear from us, we should have visited the Ozark and St. Francis National Forests in Arkansas, Tombigbee and Holly Springs National Forests in Mississippi, and the Bankhead National Forest in Alabama. Amazing isn't it? Hope your Spring is as beautiful and pleasant as ours.

Suzi and Fred